1. Too much water and poor drainage
Overwatering is the most common reason why houseplants fail. It happens more often than you think, and it happens especially when you're actually trying to take good care of the plant. A plant looks a little lethargic, the leaves may droop a little, and the natural reaction is to water. But if the soil is already damp, this will only make the problem worse.
When the soil stays wet for too long, the roots lose access to oxygen. They begin to rot, and when the roots no longer function, the plant cannot absorb water or nutrients. The result is more drooping leaves, which leads many to water again. This starts a vicious cycle where the plant is practically drowning without it looking like it on the surface.
Typical signs of overwatering
Leaves become soft and yellow
The soil feels wet long after watering
White mold or algae on the surface of the soil
Stems lose strength and collapse
Roots are brown or black and soft
Why does this happen so often?
Overwatering happens so often because everyday life makes it difficult to keep track of how much water the plant is actually getting. Many people can't remember when they last watered it and think it must have been a long time ago, even though the soil in the pot is still moist. When a plant looks a little lethargic, the natural impulse is to give it water as a kind of first aid, but drooping leaves can be a sign of both drought and that the roots are already too wet. Pots without drainage holes make it even more difficult, because the top of the soil can seem dry even though there is a hidden layer of stagnant water down around the roots. Many self-watering pots can also provide constantly moist soil, especially if the plant is in a place with low light and therefore does not use water very quickly. In addition, the top layer of soil always dries faster than the soil further down, which makes many people think that the entire pot is dry and that it is time for another watering. Finally, the soil also plays a role, because heavy and compact types of soil retain water and dry out very slowly, so that even small amounts of water can build up to a moisture level that the plant cannot tolerate.
Solutions to overwatering
From advanced to completely simple
There are several methods to avoid overwatering. Some require more time and attention, others are easier to integrate into a busy everyday life.
1. Use a pot with a drainage hole
A pot or jar where water can drain out of the bottom is the classic solution. This provides better oxygen to the roots and reduces the risk of water accumulating.
The disadvantage is that they need to be watered more often and typically require a saucer.
2. Stick a finger in the soil before watering
A simple method that works, but requires you to remember: If the soil feels moist a few centimeters down, wait to water.
The disadvantage is that it may still be wet further down and that it may be difficult to assess how moist the soil is when you put your finger in the ground.
3. Use a moisture meter
A small meter that tells you how deep the moisture is. It takes the guesswork out of the equation, but it still requires you to use it every time and evaluate the numbers correctly.
4. Note when you water
A simple logbook or a note on your phone can prevent you from watering twice too soon.
The disadvantage is that people often forget or misunderstand how quickly the soil dries in different seasons.
5. Use a lighter and more airy soil mix
Soil with bark, perlite or leca dries faster and gives the roots more oxygen.
The disadvantage is that it requires more frequent watering.
6. The Side Level Planter is the simple solution
If you want to take the guesswork out of measuring tapes, calendar notes and sticking your finger in the ground, the Side Level Planter makes it significantly easier. The indicator clearly shows whether there is water in the reservoir or not, read more here
2. Too little water and irregular watering
Underwatering does not happen because you deliberately fail to water. It happens because you forget. A plant that was supposed to be watered yesterday may not get it until the day after tomorrow because everyday life is distracting and the plant looks pretty good. It is only when the leaves droop that you become aware that it lacks water. However, the problem is that by the time a plant shows clear signs of drought, the roots have already been stressed for some time.
When the soil dries out completely, it contracts and releases the edge of the pot. This means that the water runs directly down the sides without penetrating the soil. The plant therefore does not get the water that otherwise seems logical to give. This creates the confusing situation where you water, but the plant still hangs and looks sad.
Typical signs of too little water
Leaf edges become brown and crispy
The entire plant collapses and appears limp.
The soil becomes hard, light and pulls away from the pot
Water flows directly through without wetting the soil
New leaves become small and dry out quickly
Why underwatering happens so often
Underwatering is most often caused by underestimating how quickly a plant uses water. During periods of more light, higher temperatures or dry air, water evaporates much faster than you notice. The plant may look fine one moment and suddenly droop the next, but by the time it shows obvious signs, the roots have already been stressed for some time.
Small pots dry out significantly faster than expected, especially when the plant has grown and filled most of the pot. A plant that previously could manage for a week may suddenly need water after a few days. Many people unconsciously continue with the old watering rhythm and overlook that the plant's needs change over time.
Another reason is that many people don't know how much water is actually needed to soak the soil. You add a little water at a time, but it never reaches the roots. This means that the top of the soil appears moist, while the soil further down is still dry, and the plant is therefore still in a deficit even after watering.
In addition, water requirements vary depending on the season, room temperature, location in relation to sunlight and general indoor climate. The many changes make it difficult to follow a fixed routine, and the sense of time is often deceptive. You think five days have passed, but in reality ten have passed. The plant only shows the signals when it already lacks water, and at that point the stress is evident in both the soil and the leaves.
Solutions to submersion
From practical routines to the simplest solution
1. Water slowly and in several passes
When the soil is dry, water often just runs through. Therefore, water slowly and in small portions so that the soil can absorb the moisture all the way down to the roots.
2. Place the pot in a tub of water
If the soil has contracted and is no longer absorbing water, you can place the pot in a basin and let it absorb water from below. This ensures even wetting of the entire root ball.
3. Choose a larger pot when the plant has grown.
When the roots fill the pot, water consumption increases significantly. A slightly larger pot gives the soil the capacity to retain moisture for a longer period of time.
4. Make a regular check-in day
Instead of watering by feel, you can have a set day each week where you check the soil. This creates a rhythm and reduces the risk of forgetting the plant.
5. Use a moisture meter
A simple meter gives you a clear picture of whether the soil is dry down at the roots. It takes the guesswork out of the equation and helps you water at the right time.
6. Use a Side Level Planter for the Most Intuitive Solution
The Side Level Planter waters from below, so the roots get exactly the amount of water they need. The indicator on the side clearly shows when the reservoir is empty, so you can see at a glance when the plant needs to be watered. This eliminates the need to feel in the soil and makes it easy to maintain a steady watering rhythm in a busy everyday life.
3. Wrong light for the plant's needs
Incorrect light for the plant's needs
Light is the plant's source of energy. Without enough light, the plant cannot produce the energy it needs to grow, maintain its leaves, or absorb water efficiently. Too much light, on the other hand, can damage the leaves and cause the soil to dry out too quickly.
This is one of the most common and overlooked causes of problems with houseplants. Many people interpret the symptoms as watering errors, but in reality, water consumption is directly affected by the amount of light. A plant in the dark uses much less water, while a plant in a lot of light uses water faster than most people expect.
When the light is not right for the plant, an imbalance occurs in the plant's entire system. It starts to produce fewer leaves, the lower ones fall off, new leaves become small and weak, and the water in the soil behaves differently than expected.
Typical signs of too little light
Long, lanky stems reaching toward the window
New leaves become small, pale or lose color
The lower leaves turn yellow and fall off.
The plant grows significantly slower than normal
The soil dries out only very slowly.
Typical signs of too much light
Light or almost white spots on the leaves
Brown scorched areas that feel dry
The soil dries out extremely quickly
The leaves become stiff or curl at the edges
Why lighting problems happen so often
Light is difficult to assess with the eye. The human eye is constantly adjusting to the brightness of a room, so a place may appear bright to us, even though there is actually almost no energy for the plant. A dark corner can easily seem cozy and appropriate, but be close to useless for a plant.
Plants in Danish homes are often placed in places chosen for aesthetic reasons, not biological ones. We place them where they look good, where they fit in the room, or where there is space on a shelf.
The plant then receives whatever light there is, and many species struggle for months before they finally show clear signs of stress.
Additionally, the amount of light changes dramatically throughout the year. A location that works well in the summer months may be far too dark in the winter. Many people don't consider that the plant gets a third less energy in cold months, which affects both growth, color and water consumption.
Finally, many people confuse light problems with water problems. When the plant looks droopy, you often water more. But a plant in the dark uses very little water, so extra watering only creates overwatering on top of the lack of light.
Solutions to lighting problems
Simple adjustments that make a big difference
1. Move the plant closer to a window
Indirect daylight from a bright window is ideal for most houseplants. Moving them just one meter can double the amount of light.
2. Avoid direct bright sun for delicate plants
Plants like monstera, calathea and pilea thrive best in soft light. Use a light curtain as a diffuse filter in strong sunlight.
3. Turn the plant regularly
Plants grow towards the light. By turning the plant a little every week, it will grow more evenly and avoid crooked stems.
4. Position the plant away from large shade-casting objects
Shelves, sofas and large pots create shadows that you may not notice. Make sure the plant is not behind heavy furniture.
5. Adjust watering according to the light
If the plant is in a lot of light, it will use water more quickly. If it is in the dark, the water will remain in the soil for a long time. Watering should therefore always follow the light level.
6. Use a Side Level Planter to Avoid Light-Related Overwatering
Light and water are closely related. When a plant is in the dark, it uses almost no water, and overwatering occurs quickly. The Side Level Planter makes it easy to see how much water is actually in the reservoir. This way, you avoid watering “just in case” if the plant seems sluggish, because you can see if water is actually available. This is especially useful when the plant is in a place where the light varies throughout the year.
4. Pests, mold and small flies in the soil
Small flies in houseplants, also known as midges, are one of the most frustrating things plant owners experience. They often appear suddenly and can quickly spread throughout the home. At the same time, white mold or mildew often appears on the surface of the soil, and many mistakenly believe that the plant is sick. In reality, both problems are closely related to moisture and air circulation in the soil.
Most pests choose plants that are in constantly moist soil. They lay eggs in the top layer of soil, and when the larvae hatch, they feed on organic materials in the soil. If conditions don’t change, the cycle continues over and over again. The result is a struggling plant, soil that doesn’t dry out, and flies flying up every time you water.
Mold on the surface of the soil often comes from the same thing. It is not dangerous for the plant in itself, but it is a sign that the soil is too moist for a long time and is not allowed to breathe.
Typical signs of pests and mold
Small flies that fly up when you water
White mold or mildew on the surface of the soil
Sticky leaves caused by aphids
Fine webs between the leaves from spider mites
Slow growth and yellow leaves due to stress
Why pests and mold occur so often
Pests love warm, humid conditions. When the soil is never allowed to dry out easily at the top, it becomes an ideal base for powdery mildew and fungi. Many people water without knowing if the soil is still moist down in the pot, and excess water can get trapped in the bottom if the pot doesn't have a drain.
Plants that are too dark use much less water than expected, and the soil stays moist for longer. This creates a favorable environment for mold. In addition, many pots have vertical sides without air circulation, making it difficult for the top layer of soil to dry between waterings.
Another reason is pots with internal reservoirs. If the soil is constantly getting moisture from below without the soil surface having time to dry out, flies and mold have optimal conditions. This does not mean that self-watering systems are bad, but that they should be designed to provide both moisture and air.
Finally, the fact that many people discover the problem late plays a big role. The flies only become apparent when there are already eggs and larvae in the soil. When they are visible, it is rarely the beginning but the middle of the problem.
Solutions for pests and mold
Practical methods that work
1. Let the top layer of soil dry out between waterings
Flies do not lay eggs in dry soil. A short period of dryness prevents new generations from developing.
2. Remove the top layer of soil and replace it with new
A quick way to remove eggs, larvae and mold layers. It gives the plant a fresh start.
3. Use yellow glue traps
They attract the adult flies and reduce their numbers, which reduces the amount of eggs laid.
4. Consider using a top cover such as gravel or leca
A top cover makes the surface dry and less attractive to flies. It also helps the soil breathe.
5. Water more controlled
If you water too often, you keep the soil moist enough for flies and mold to thrive. Adjust the watering rhythm according to the plant's actual needs.
6. Use a Side Level Planter for Better Moisture Management
The Side Level Planter helps to provide moisture to the roots from below without the soil surface becoming constantly wet. This makes the environment less attractive to sooty mold and mildew. At the same time, you can see exactly when the reservoir is empty, so you avoid watering unnecessarily from above. This creates a more stable moisture balance that makes it much harder for flies to establish themselves.
5. Stress from pot selection, size and environment
Even when you water properly and give your plant the right amount of light, it can still struggle if the pot or environment around it doesn't suit its needs. The pot is the plant's home. It controls how quickly the soil dries, how much air the roots get, where the water ends up when you water, and how stable the plant stands. When the pot doesn't match the plant, stress occurs that can be hard to detect until the leaves start to react.
A pot that is too big holds more soil than the roots can use. This keeps the soil wet for longer, increasing the risk of rot and slow growth. A pot that is too small provides no buffer for water and therefore dries out extremely quickly. The roots will run out of moisture before you can react. Pots without drainage holes can create a hidden layer of water at the bottom that the roots can sit in and struggle to thrive in, even if the top of the soil seems dry.
The same applies to the environment around the plant. Heat from radiators, cold window sills, dry air and drafts can cause stress, which the plant shows through yellow leaves, brown edges or leaf fall. The environment also affects water consumption. A plant close to a radiator uses water faster, while a plant in a cool room uses almost no water. Many plants struggle not because the owner is doing something wrong, but because the environment changes throughout the year.
Typical signs that potty or environment is causing stress
The plant dries out much faster than expected
The soil remains wet for several days without the plant drinking.
Leaves turn yellow or fall off for no apparent reason
The plant is leaning or standing unsteadily.
Roots push up through the soil or out through the drainage hole
Plants react differently depending on the season
Why potting choices and environmental issues arise so often
This happens because most people choose pots based on appearance and decor, not biological needs. A nice heavy ceramic pot without a drainage hole looks great, but many plants don't thrive in it. We also place plants where they fit in the home, not where they get the light and temperature they need.
In addition, the home environment changes throughout the year. Radiators dry out the air in winter. The sun changes angle. Windows get cold. The room gets hotter in summer. A location that worked perfectly in April may be bad in November. The plant reacts slowly, so the stress builds up over time and only becomes visible when the problems are already evident in the leaves.
Many people also don't realize that the plant has grown too big for its pot. When the roots fill almost everything, the pot acts like a small water bottle that runs dry after a few hours. It requires more water than you expect, and therefore underwatering and leaf stress quickly occur.
Solutions to pot and environmental problems
Practical adjustments that stabilize the plant
1. Choose a pot that fits the root ball
A good rule of thumb is to choose a pot that is only slightly larger than the current one. This provides better moisture balance and less risk of overwatering.
2. Use a pot with a drainage hole
This allows the roots to release excess water. You can still use a nice outer pot as long as the plant is in an inner pot with a hole.
3. Move the plant away from radiators and cold window sills
Large temperature changes are one of the most overlooked stress factors for houseplants.
4. Give the plant some air around it
Plants that are pressed against walls or furniture have less air circulation, and the soil dries out unpredictably.
5. Repot the plant when the roots fill everything
Fresh soil provides better moisture balance, more air and space for growth.
6. Use a Side Level Planter for More Stable Moisture
When the pot helps you see how much water is actually available, you avoid mistaking stress for thirst or overwatering. The Side Level Planter makes it easy to maintain an even moisture balance because it allows the roots to access water from below without the soil necessarily getting wet at the top. It reduces temperature and location-related stress because you can see with a single glance if the plant is lacking water.